Iwate’s Samurai Spirit
When people think of samurai, they often picture Kyoto or Edo, but deep in the rugged north of Japan lies a city built on honour, resilience, and quiet strength. Welcome to Morioka, home to the once-mighty Nambu Clan and the stone foundations of Morioka Castle, a fortress not of glory, but of grit.
Let’s take a stroll through the sword-swept history of Iwate’s capital and the lords who shaped it.
The Nambu Clan: Guardians of the North
The Nambu Clan (南部氏) ruled much of what is now Iwate and parts of Aomori for over 700 years. They weren’t flashy warlords, they were practical, loyal, and fiercely independent.
Quick Nambu facts:
– Originally from Kai Province (modern Yamanashi).
– Migrated north in the 1300s, establishing their power in the Tōhoku region.
– Controlled the Morioka Domain during the Edo period under the Tokugawa shogunate.
– Known for their horses, ironworking, and strategic use of mountainous terrain.
– They were not major players in flashy historical dramas, but in the unpredictable north, cold winters, rebellious neighbors, and distance from the capital, they were survivors and protectors.
Morioka Castle: A Fortress of Stone and Snow
Built in 1598 by Nambu Nobunao, Morioka Castle (盛岡城) was the stronghold of the clan during the peaceful Edo period. But unlike traditional castles made of white plaster and wood,
Morioka Castle was something different…
What made it special:
– Constructed entirely from local granite. It was strong, beautiful, and enduring.
– Featured no tenshu (main keep), a sign of loyalty and modesty under the Tokugawa regime.
– Positioned strategically at the meeting point of the Kitakami and Nakatsu rivers.
– Surrounded by moats and stone walls that blend with the landscape.
Today, the castle is gone, but the stone ruins remain. They are quiet, powerful, and still echoing with the spirit of its builders.
Iwate Park (岩手公園): A Castle’s Second Life
The castle grounds were transformed into a public park in the early 1900s by architect Yasui Nagaoka, who helped preserve the ruins and layout.
Now called Iwate Park, it’s:
– A favourite spot for cherry blossom viewing in spring.
– A cool, leafy escape during Morioka’s hot summers.
– A snowy wonderland in winter, perfect for peaceful strolls.
– Hosts many festivals and music concerts.
– Home to statues of Nambu lords, elegant stone bridges, and hidden history under every footstep.
Whether you’re a samurai buff or a casual traveller, walking through Iwate Park is like exploring a living museum.
The Spirit of the Samurai Today
The Nambu legacy still shapes the identity of Iwate:
– Nambu ironware (南部鉄器), world-famous cast iron teapots and cookware, originated under their patronage.
– Nambu horses, once prized for war, are still honoured in regional festivals.
– Morioka’s calm, humble character? A reflection of samurai who fought with strategy, not swagger.
How to Enjoy Morioka’s Samurai Heritage
1. Explore the stone walls of the old castle grounds.
2. Visit Morioka History and Culture Museum nearby for armor, weapons, and clan documents.
3. Look for komainu (stone guardian dogs) that guard old shrines.
4. Try Nambu-themed souvenirs such as ironware, folding fans, or crested textiles.
5. Sip tea where lords once strategised, in one of the traditional tea houses nearby.
Final Thoughts: Stone, Snow, and Samurai
Morioka may not have a towering keep or dramatic battlefield tales, but that’s exactly what makes it special. It tells the quieter story of loyalty, adaptation, and the strength of stone over show.
The samurai spirit of Iwate still flows, like the rivers that run past the castle walls, calm on the surface, strong underneath.
(Exploring Iwate) The History of Morioka Castle and the Nambu Clan
